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Old May 24th, 2011, 7:15 pm   #1
Tzone21
  
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Default Probe wont start! HELP!

Hey guys, my probe wont start.

1994 Ford Probe GT 2.5l 5 speed
-My old starter was worn and needed to be replaced. Took it to a shop for analysis and it still worked, but barley enough to start the car. Sometimes i needed to hit the starter with a hammer to get it to go.
-Replaced the starter with a brand new 1, car wont start
-Replaced spark plugs, fuel filter (Was doing a tune up, plug wires seemed fine)
-Car still does not start, when i turn the ignition key all the lights illuminate and i hear the fuel pump turn on soon after.
-Had the distributor cap replaced with a brand new unit less than 5k miles ago

-Had the battery checked out (less than a year old) Checked out good at autozone & advanced auto. Has proper fluid level as well.
-If i push the car and drop the clutch it starts right up and runs perfectly, but if i shut the car off for any reason it will NOT start up again.
-I tested my brand new starter and it runs just like it was meant to.
-used a multimeter and tested power going to the starter, and the battery. checks out good.
-The starter "clicks" when i atempt to start it from turning the ignition key, but never turns. The car has always required 1-3 turns from the ignition key to start but now i get nothing.
-I also took a wire brush and cleaned up my terminals & connections pretty well (not perfect)

Any ideas?
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94' Ford Probe GT 5 speed- The Daily
MX3 Flywheel, K&N Filter, STI Spark Plugs/Wires, Weight Reduction, Flowmaster muffler (Quiet)

86' Pontiac Fiero GT - The Racecar
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00' Chevy Camaro SS 6 speed- The Weekend-er
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Last edited by Tzone21; May 24th, 2011 at 7:21 pm.
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Old May 24th, 2011, 7:34 pm   #2
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Maybe your ignition is going out? When you turn the key it wont send enough power? My ignition would act weird and not make proper contact to start everything, so it could be doing similar to you. I can't remember if there is some way to bypass the ignition to trigger the starter. I think you could probably run a jumper to start it up or something.
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Old May 24th, 2011, 8:17 pm   #3
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It sounds like you are okay on the power side of your engine starting circuit, but since you have a "no crank" problem try running a battery jumper cable from the negative battery post down to the starter's case where it bolts up to the block. If it cranks & starts then you have a bad ground for the starter.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 3:22 pm   #4
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so it isn't turnign over? Don't add any more ignition or other parts if it is not turning over. Your problem is in the starting system. You have new starter. I would check positive and ground cables and connections. If it is clicking, It sounds like the ignition switch is trying to engage the solinoid.
Could be an ignition switch issue. Check all cables, ground and positive, their joints and connections. make sure when you turn switch to start that 12 v is getting to solinoid. This closes the connection form the 12 v cable and starter motor should turn. If bendix is bad the starter will turn (not your problem) but gear will not move into engage flywheel. It would just spin starter and not turn engine. Sounds to me like you have a connection, cable issue.
DO NOT spend more money of other parts until you get motor to turn over. You can change all other nonstarter circut parts on the car and it won't make it turn over. Good luck.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 9:01 pm   #5
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Car in neutral with parking brake applied. Turn key to the run position. Take a jumper wire from the + battery cable on the starter to the small post or blade on the starter. The car should crank and start. If it starts it eliminates any ground or battery cable problems. Using a volt meter test all the wires on the starter (key off). The large cable should be at least 12v. If there is more than one other connection check both of them. One may have 12v but one should have 0v. The one with zero should have 12v only when key is in the start position. If you don't get 12v in start position you need to go backwards thru the start circuit (bad relay, switch)

If it didn't crank and start with the jumper the solenoid on the starter is probably bad even it is fairly new.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 10:30 pm   #6
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Default Dford6 has it..

Do the battery cable ground jumper test. When it starts OK, you have confirmed a cable problem. Check the battery cable ends, wires where they attach to the battery cable clamps, and the starter ground. If the starter was painted or coated with a clear sealer, male sure it was removed from the mounting flange where it bolts to the transmission.
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Old May 31st, 2011, 1:15 am   #7
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Thanks for all the replies.
- I did a battery jump to the starter and the starter would just spin.
- Used a multimeter and the battery read 20 vdc at the positive end and 0 vdc for the negative. the 20 seems pretty high for a 12vdc battery but im assuming its just my multimeter.
- The cables read fine and voltage is getting to the starter as well.
- Also when i had my other vehicle connected via jumper cables, i attempted to start the car about 10 times and it started once easily, but when i turned it off and tried again all i got was that clicking noise again.

any other thoughts?
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94' Ford Probe GT 5 speed- The Daily
MX3 Flywheel, K&N Filter, STI Spark Plugs/Wires, Weight Reduction, Flowmaster muffler (Quiet)

86' Pontiac Fiero GT - The Racecar
327 (5.4L) SBC + lots of mods

00' Chevy Camaro SS 6 speed- The Weekend-er
Stock With SLP package/Air lid ( For now)
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Old May 31st, 2011, 1:56 am   #8
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If your starter just spun with out spinning the engine either you jumped to the wrong heavy cable/connection (the one that goes into the motor) my first guess or your starter bendix is bad.

You need to jump using a small wire from the + battery cable to the small connection on the starter. You should do this without any other vehicle hooked up. You may just have a bad battery.
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Old May 31st, 2011, 1:58 am   #9
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Default Battery termnals

Take the battery terminals apart (if they are after-market replacements) or replace them - You will find white & green power in the connection point to the wire. Cut this corroded stuff away and put new clamps on.
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Old May 31st, 2011, 4:59 pm   #10
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i think it may be the terminals, ill replace them and if the corrosion isnt too bad ill just wire brush it
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94' Ford Probe GT 5 speed- The Daily
MX3 Flywheel, K&N Filter, STI Spark Plugs/Wires, Weight Reduction, Flowmaster muffler (Quiet)

86' Pontiac Fiero GT - The Racecar
327 (5.4L) SBC + lots of mods

00' Chevy Camaro SS 6 speed- The Weekend-er
Stock With SLP package/Air lid ( For now)
Tzone21 was last online June 24th, 2012 6:19 pm  
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Old June 8th, 2011, 11:43 pm   #11
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Well i figured out the problem if anyone is still interested.

1. The brand new starter from advanced auto had a bad starter solenoid on it, when i would use a screwdriver to connect the power to the solenoid the engine would start with ease.
2. The connecting wire to the starter from the ignition had HEAVY corrosion (very green) so i cut that and am going to splice in a new connection.

thanks for all your help guys
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94' Ford Probe GT 5 speed- The Daily
MX3 Flywheel, K&N Filter, STI Spark Plugs/Wires, Weight Reduction, Flowmaster muffler (Quiet)

86' Pontiac Fiero GT - The Racecar
327 (5.4L) SBC + lots of mods

00' Chevy Camaro SS 6 speed- The Weekend-er
Stock With SLP package/Air lid ( For now)
Tzone21 was last online June 24th, 2012 6:19 pm  
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