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Old August 23rd, 2009, 2:14 pm   #1
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Default Timing Belt Replacemnet

Hello Friends,

First time poster; just joined the forum. I have a 96 ford probe GT that started runing real bad. After some checking,found it out of time and am in the middle of replacing the timing belt.

When I took the covers off, I found black pieces of plastic shreaded inside the timing belt area and found that the cam sprockets were not lined up. Explains why she was running so bad. The belt was loose and had jumped some teeth.

How do I make sure both cam sprockets are line up correctly with the crank that is currently on TDC? The pictures in my hayes manual are not so good and attemp to show marks. I am also concerned with getting the tensioner right. I am not sure but I think it was the source of a knock before the belt let go.

ANy good advice out there?

JD
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Old August 23rd, 2009, 4:14 pm   #2
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Each sprocket has individual timing marks on it. search this site for an image of timing marks. If you cant find it, try here: http://www1.garaget.org/gallery/arch...690_08ru6q.jpg

Make it easy to turn the cams (Pop off a plug wire and remove the spark plug, then fit the plug back in the wire boot and place it back in the plug well but don't screw it in, repeat for all six plugs) Then look at the edge of the cam sprockets for a series of dimples and notches. Using the image, line each up with the marks or edges on the heads. Make sure that the crank is lined up at TDC mark with the rotor in the disty POINTING AT THE #1 LEAD of the cap.

The tensioner is hydraulically set. If the new one doesn't come pre-compressed, You compress the new one in a vice and put a piece of steel wire (or a small drill bit) thru the lined up holes (like a hand grenade pin) Make sure it is compressed and you can still access the end of the pin once it is installed. Bolt in the tensioner, then replace your idlers.

Once you have everything on the timing marks and your sure the engine is at TDC on a combustion stroke (rotor at #1), back the crank off (turn it no more than ONE TOOTH counter-clockwise from the timing mark (this is so you can shift the belt slack to the tensioner side later. I turned the crank using a $3.00 plastic handles rubber strap wrench from "Harbor Fright" on the nose of the crank where the harmonic balancerr pulley slips on. Cheap but effective, and it doesn't damage the crank shaft.

Slip the new belt on over the cam sprockets and idelers, working from the rear head clockwise towards the crank. Don't move the sprockets and work all the belt slack towards the crank sprocket. Hold the belt at the crank sprocket, and loop the other side over the tensioner, Now you should be able to slip the belt over the crank sprocket.

Re-check the cam timing marks to verify that both cam sprockets are in time, then while lightly pressing the belt against the crank sprocket, carefully turn the crank clockwise back to the timing mark. This should shift all the slack to the tensioner side. Keep light pressure on the belt against the crank sprocket and verify the cam sprocket timing marks. If all is well, pull the pin on the tensioner.

Proof check - Turn the crank clockwise two full revolutions and re-check the cam and crank timing marks and the distributor rotor position. They will not line up after one revolutio, but ahould at the end of the second. If all is well, put her back together.

And we should move this to the maintenance section.

Last edited by mcdonn; August 23rd, 2009 at 4:57 pm.
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Old August 23rd, 2009, 11:40 pm   #3
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Thanks for the instructions. I will be ordering my parts online today. After looking over things again, I realized the black pieces of plastic found in the a timing belt area was the outside shell of the top idler pulley. I changed the belt about two years ago as preventative maintenance but did not replace the idlers or tensioner. At that time I did not have to worry about the position of the cam sprockets because they had not moved. I want to make sure I have things lined up well. The marks referenced are not all that discernable when looking at the block.

Prices are all over the place for the timing belt kit (Tensioner pulley, belt, and two idlers). I will have to order the hydraulic tensioner in addition. Any suggestions?

JD
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Old August 24th, 2009, 2:39 am   #4
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THere are instructions for replacing the bearings in the idlers with off-the-shelf bearings. All you would need are the tensioner, belt and four stock bearings.
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Old August 24th, 2009, 3:44 am   #5
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Thanks, but I ordered a bit ago. Got all three pulleys the belt and the tensioner for $132. Maybe a few days before I get it and I will back on when he job is done.

JD
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 2:54 am   #6
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Got it together and she starts. Runs with the rpms up but as soon as she idles back, runs rough and shuts off. Checked all my vacuum lines. I removed the distributor cap and rotor. The black cover in the distributor that sits behind the rotor has hairline cracks. I didn't remember seeing them earlier in the project. Is this where the ignition coil is?
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 3:23 am   #7
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Default stalls at idle

Yes, that is where the coil is, and one or two cam position sensors. However, I think that you still have a vac leak. Is is posting any CEL codes? Are there any cracks or openings in the intake from the VAF to the throttle body?
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Old September 3rd, 2009, 12:23 am   #8
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No codes yet, but I did find a crack in the air intake between the air cleaner box and the throttle body. Is the VAF the box that houses the air cleaner and MAF sensor ? Not up on all the acronyms. By the way, the trick to get the slack to the tensioner pulley side of the crank worked good when I was getting it back together. I'm going out to see if I can get the crack closed enough to get the car to idle. If that works, I will just invest in a new air cleaner set up like some are showing here on the site.

JD
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Old September 3rd, 2009, 2:11 am   #9
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Default Yes, that crack will cause you grief.

Glad to help. Got that one tooth back trick from a serious Probe owner named Travis Williams (Wopath) who can probably swap a timing belt in about 30 minutes.

Our cars don't have a Mass Air Flow sensor. Instead, they have a volumetric system that uses a cone shaped plug in the air intake that is pushed back proportional to the air getting past it. It looks restrictive as all hell, but it offers a surprisingly low restriction. The convolutions in the rubber elbow between the VAF and the throttle body cause more restriction than the VAF does. You can either go after market CAI, or you can replace the elbow with a Fernco 3" large radius rubber elbow with one bell cut off and two clamps. Then open the front of the lower part of the stock air box, and run an intake hose (3" polished aluminum tubing) from the front of the stock air box to below the drag skirt. Turn it forward and shape it to an oval opening in the air stream to catch and ram cold air into the stock air box. If you run 3" tube and cut a 4" entrance opening in the bottom portion of the stock air box it wont hoover up water when you skim a puddle.

Last edited by mcdonn; September 3rd, 2009 at 2:16 am.
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Old September 3rd, 2009, 3:18 am   #10
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Default Runs but still not idling

I used some good old duct tape to get the crack closed and she ran better, good actually until she sits to idle. When the engine was cold, it ran on high idle and OK, but when she dropped back to idle, it is rough. I did get a some codes:

P0110 - IAT sensor circuit malfunction
P119 - Manufacturer control Fuel Air Metering

I warmed her up and erased the codes. Took her around the block (that felt good after all this work) and the codes did not come back. I will start with a cold engine tomorrow and see if they reoccur. You can tell something is happening as the engine warms. It idles sometimes with a little bit of a miss and then starts acting like she doesn't want to run at all until I get into the throttle. I did notice that it did not run as well when I put the front piece (Intake tube)on the air cleaner box
Any other advice? I really appreciate you taking the time to help.
JD

Last edited by jdoud; September 3rd, 2009 at 3:21 am.
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Old September 3rd, 2009, 5:34 am   #11
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Default the IAT may be valid. It could use a cleaning

THe IAT uses a piston in a wax filled cylinder to alter the air/fuel entering the engine as the cae warms up. The coolant is circulated around the cylinder, and the heat expands the wax as the temperature rises to alter the idle. Any IAT issues would show up as idle problems during warm-up. There are threads on this site that discuss IAT dis-assembly and cleaning. I would bet that the P119 is a remnant from the air leak & tape problem.
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Old September 6th, 2009, 1:00 am   #12
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Default still at it

Read the thread, and plled the IAC. I can't blow through the valve when it is cold. No ohms across terminals. Guess I have to find one of those now. OH BOY>>>>
JD
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