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Old August 18th, 2009, 9:30 am   #1
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Default cv joint replacement

can some one give me some tips and walk through ont his i am planning ot do this somtime this week since my boot ripped a few months ago and lately its been squeeking when i drive :\ i know the hardest parts gonna be popping it off not looking forward to that :\
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Old August 19th, 2009, 5:24 am   #2
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Nope, the hardest part is either getting the 32mm axle nut off, followed by getting the axle to pop out. There are a few how to posts for removing a half axle. Best method for me is as follows:
use a punch and hammer to release the lock bump on the 32mm axle nut, then break it loose - just enough to start turning. - breaker bar or impact wrench.

jack up car and put on a stand.

Remove the wheel then the axle nut

wipe down the drain plug area and drain a little of the tranny oil out into a clean container or it may wash down the floor

Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end and pop the rod loose. Put the nut back on the rod end for now

Option 1 - Remove ball joint thru bolt from bottom of steering knuckle
... Use a strap to loop around the bottom of the strut and the transverse mount so that you can pull the strut inward as you swing the control arm down to drop the ball joint pin out of the knuckle.

... Spin the old axle nut back on until flush withthe shaft end (to protect the threads)

... Use a soft punch (or scrap of copper, brass, or aluminum stock) and a hammer to tap the axle spline shaft while swinging the steering knuckle outward and up until the axle end is free.

Option 2 - Remove the brake caliper and wire it to the strut spring so it doesn't hang.

... Witness mark the strut to steering knuckle seam, then remove the two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle

... Use a soft punch (or scrap of copper, brass, or aluminum stock) and a hammer to tap the axle spline shaft while swinging the steering knuckle outward and down until the axle end is free.

Using two large pry bars (those bent screwdriver looking things) or two short hardwood wedges between the half axle inner CV joint and the tranny housing and applying even pressure to both sides until it pops. Do not pry on the seal if possible

If possible, replace the output shaft seal by prying it out and tapping the new one in with a large socket or the old seal and a light hammer

Install is reverse of removal. Rotate the axle spring clip so that the open gap is on the bottom (it may need a little down-sizing too, but it should have a gap big enough that it will still catch the groove in the tranny) And don't forget to top off the tranny oil!

I prefer option 1 as it has a smaller chance of screwing with the alignment and I can leave the caliper in place. And use some anti-seize on the outer splines so it's easier next time.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 5:59 am   #3
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sounds decently easy hahah definitally cant be worse then my attempted coil over installation xD sounds like its an easy job for 2 people.... im debating with staying stock with the cvs or upgrading to the fidanzas,,,,,
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Old September 7th, 2009, 12:22 am   #4
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Its not hard at all you shouldn't have any problems. I was always nervous about them until I did the motor swap on my PGT and felt stupid after i found out how easy it is just make sure you replace your seals too
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